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Q. Back in December I made some ice wine. It turned out great - beautiful color and had a great taste. About a week or so after I bottled it, sugar crystals settled in the bottle on the side. What’s wrong?
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A.
The crystals are potassium bitartrate. This is excess tartaric acid that is precipitating out. Potassium in the grape combines with tartaric acid to form a soluble potassium bitartrate. The solubility is reduced further by increased alcohol and the result is precipitation of crystals. If you chill the wine for a week or so, even more crystals will form.
These will not actually hurt the wine, but are unsightly and a nuisance to get out of the bottles once emptied. You have two choices. One, you can open the bottles and very gently transfer the wine to new bottles, or two, you can leave the wine alone and decant it before drinking. A chilled wine will take up less oxygen than a room temperature wine.
To prevent this from happening next year, cold stabilize the wine for two weeks or so before bottling it.
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Q. We always rack after five weeks of fermentation. The S.G. is generally between .992 and .995. What are the down sides of leaving it longer than five weeks? What are the benefits?
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A.
The indicator for the preferred dryness is the hydrometer. Each juice (properly termed must) is always a different entity. Five weeks is definitely too long to leave the fermentation. After 8-10 days of fermentation at room temperature 21C (72 F), your SG will be very close to 1.000, if not already below this. Now is the time to rack off the wine from the sediments. The prompt removal of yeast cells from new wine is desirable; this protects the wine from nitrogenous substances released both by excretions of the living yeast cells and the autolysis of dead cells. Nitrogenous excretions increase after the death of the yeast when autolysis (self-digestion of cellular constituents) occurs. Autolysis liberates strong reducing enzymes and produces compounds unpleasant to the taste and smell, but also favour the growth of lactic acid bacteria and so render the wine more susceptible to bacterial spoilage.
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Q. How should I prepare my filter pads for filtering?
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A.
Filter pads should be soaked in cold water for 10 – 15 minutes before fitting them into your filter. It is also important to filter 1 – 2 gallons of cool water before beginning to filter your wine. This helps to remove any paper taste that you may get from the filter pads and allows you to check for proper assembly and leakage BEFORE you begin to filter your wine.
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Q. No matter how much I stir, I still have foam on my wine. How can I tell if my wine is really degassed?
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A.
If you follow the wine kit directions faithfully, which generally say to stir vigorously three times a day for three days with the handle of your spoon, you should have no gas left in your wine after three days. Other effective methods include transferring your wine into a primary fermentor and then pouring it quickly back and forth into another primary several times; siphoning your wine into
the primary and stirring vigorously with your spoon as it fills the pail; using a Fizzex tool on your electric drill, and so on. To be sure that your wine is properly degassed, taste the wine – it should not be “prickly” like flat pop. If it is, continue to degas until you are satisfied that there is no gas left.
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Q. Why would I add banana powder (or flakes) to my wine?
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Banana powder or flakes added to your wine in the primary fermentor will increase the body of a wine without conferring an obvious banana flavour.
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Q. What water should I use when making my wine?
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Consumers think they need to be concerned about the water they use in winemaking. TRUE. Local municipal water is not suitable, mostly because of the high levels of chlorine. For the best results, you should use filtered, or REVERSE OSMOSIS water. If you have to use tap water, fill your primary fermenter and leave it out for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
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Q. Do I need to strain the water from the oak?
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A.
The reason for adding the oak to boiling water is to be sure that there is no bacteria present before adding it to your wine. You wait 15 minutes to allow it to cool and then add the entire mixture.
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Q. How do I know if my wine is fermenting and when it is finished?
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Many people think that if they do not see any bubbles in the airlock that this means the wine is not fermenting. This is not true. Bubbles in the airlock are just CO2 escaping form the wine. If there are no bubbles in the airlock it could mean that your wine is not fermenting but it could also mean that the CO2 is just leaking out from another spot.
The ONLY TRUE way to know whether your wine is fermenting is by using the hydrometer. By taking an initial reading and then taking more readings on a regular basis throughout the fermentation, you will be able to see if the Specific Gravity is moving and this will tell you if your wine is fermenting or not.
In the instructions you are told that your wine is finished when the SG has reached .996 - .990. This is a range and you will know when it is actually finished when you have a reading in this range that remains constant for 2 – 3 days.
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Q. Do I have to filter my wine?
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A.
Filtering is not mandatory. We do however recommend it. By filtering your wine, you give it an extra polish and more professional finish. You will be sure to have a brilliantly clear wine with a crisp clean taste. If you do not filter, you should be aware that it is possible to have a fall out in your bottles at a later date.
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Q. Is there anything special I need to know about yeast?
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A. IMPORTANT!
Please ensure that the yeast is added properly. More experienced wine makers refer to adding the yeast as, “PITCHING” the yeast. Winemakers should follow the instructions found in all the winemaking kits to get the best fermentation results. For a quicker start to the fermentation, you can opt to follow the instructions on the back of the yeast pack.
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Q. How long will it take to degas my wine?
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A. During the fermentation, your wine will become gassy. Every wine kit will be a little different in regards to the amount of gas (CO2) that will develop. A very gassy wine will of course take longer to degas than one with less CO2 in it. CO2 will come out of your wine much more easily at warmer temperatures. Therefore, it is a good idea to keep the wine at a higher temperature during this step. Usually a wine will degas within one day but sometimes it can take as long as three days. The important thing is to continue the stirring process periodically until you see no more visible signs of gas or gas bubbles. Now you can lower the temperature for the clearing process.
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Q. What is the #4 Sorbate pack used for?
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A.In our wine kits the #4 Sorbate pack should ONLY be added to the wine if you are adding a sweetener before bottling time. If you will not be sweetening your wine, DO NOT add the Sorbate pack.
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Q. What is the specific gravity?
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A.Specific gravity or density is actually just a measurement of how dense (or thick) a liquid is. The density of water is 1.000. When you start your wine it is full of unfermented sugars that are quite dense so your specific gravity is high (between 1.075- 1.090). As the wine ferments and the sugars are changed into alcohol, the density of the wine drops steadily. A finished wine should be between .996 -.990.
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Q. How do I put the capsules on my bottles?
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A.The best way to accomplish this task is as follows: Boil water in a small pot. Put the capsule on the top of the bottle and hold it in place with a wooden spoon. Turn the bottle upside down and immerse the top of the bottle into the boiling water. Within a fraction of a second, the capsule will shrink to form a tight fit on the bottle.
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Q. Should a red wine be allowed to breath?
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A. Some big full bodied red wines need to be opened an hour or so before drinking and poured into a decanter or jug. Taking the cork out and leaving the wine in the bottle does not do much as there is very little air contact in the neck of the bottle. Generally speaking though, most wines can be drunk immediately on opening. If you have run out of time and you feel your wine needs air contact (breathing) then pour the bottle (from a height) into a large jug and back into the bottle again - good aeration happens here.
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Q. To chill, or not to chill?
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A. The perceived wisdom is that red wines are enjoyed more when un-chilled. Chilling a wine does tend to kill the delicious flavours. You should never chill any of the more full bodied reds (e.g. those made from Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir), but a slightly chilled Beaujolais or Valpolicella can be delicious on a warm Summer afternoon!
It is recommended that you chill white wines before drinking. Make sure that you don't over-chill because, again, some of the important flavours will be hidden by the cold. In the end it's your choice, but the important thing is to ENJOY IT!
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Q. What becomes of the skins and pits of grapes after the wine has been made?
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A. Once grapes have been crushed and the 'free run' juice has been taken off for fermentation, the grape skins and pips remain as surplus to requirements. There are two main 'outlets' for this waste which is known as pomace. You can imagine that it is rich in protein and other nutrients . . . ideal, in fact for animal feeds. The pomace is packed into 'cakes' and sold off for this purpose.
Alternatively, mixed with a little wine the pomace can be distilled. The resulting brandy is a little fiery in character, and certainly an acquired taste! The Germans call it Trester, the Italians—Grappa—and the French—Marc.
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Q. Can old bottles of wine present a health risk? Also, how can I distinguish if a bottle of wine is tainted?
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A. It is highly unlikely that any wine can present a health risk. The enjoyment of wine is a very subjective choice. Some wines were made to mature into their best, and others should be at their most delicious when young. But this decision is down to you.
If uncertain on a suspect wine, open the bottle in the right conditions, pour a little into a glass, and have a big old sniff! If the wine smells good then it will taste wonderful, but if the smell is horrible then the wine is probably past its best or has a taint of some kind.
Visit Tainted-Wine.com to pick up some guidance on what to look for in unhealthy wines.
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Q. Why must you age wine?
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A. Red wines and some white wines need to age in order to reduce harsh acidity or tannins, and develop smoother, more drinkable characteristics.
There are two separate ways that wine can age: Barrel and bottle aging. Barrel aging is called "oxidative," and uses contact with oxygen to encourage reactions between the acids, sugars, tannins and other complex chemicals in the wine. Bottle-aging is "reductive," slowly using up the available oxygen between the wine and the cork to develop more complex, subtle flavors. Both processes are needed to achieve the ultimate quality of a fine wine.
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Q. What is that stuff sometimes found at the bottom of the bottle?
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A. It could be one of two things;
- Tartaric acid crystals: a harmless malady that forms after the bottle has not been properly stored. or,
- Black tannic deposits: a deposit of tannin and other colored materials that form after years of aging. Affects mostly red wines, and is not a sign of bad wine.
There are other maladies that can affect wine's quality, but they are very rare.
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Q. Does wine really have health benefits?
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A. Wine has numerous vitamins: Vitamin C, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 and Vitamin P.
On November 17, 1991, the TV show 60 Minutes aired a segment called "The French Paradox". The show talked about how the French eat lots of fat, smoke unfiltered cigarettes and rarely exercise, yet they have one of the lowest heart attack rates in the world. Their consumption of red wine was given as the main reason for this phenomenon. This 60 Minutes segment virtually turned around the wine industry in the United States, and prompted hundreds of studies looking into the actual cause of this. Thus, numerous articles have emerged with proof revealing that people who consume moderate amounts of alcohol (no more than 2 drinks a day) have fewer heart problems than either alcohol abusers or non-drinkers.
The positive effect of alcohol appears to be "related to an increase in serum HDL (the "good" cholesterol), a decrease in serum LDL (the "bad" cholesterol) and inhibition of arterial blood clot formation." But some studies have singled out wine as the best alcohol to drink, because of something called flavonoids, which are present in fruits, vegetables and red wine. A French research team wrote: "Wine, as compared to spirits, seems to supply natural antioxidants that inhibit the rebound effect, preventing the clumping of blood platelets in the arteries that can cause heart attacks." Recent findings are stating that alcohol may even help prevent osteoporosis by increasing bone density.
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Q. How long will wine last after it has been opened? Also, how do I make it last longer?
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A. Wine starts to deteriorate when oxygen hits it. Generally, a wine will last about a day if left opened in a kitchen, and up to three days in the refrigerator.
There are some inexpensive gadgets you can buy to preserve wine for longer periods of time. For instance, the Vacu -Vin system uses rubber stoppers and a pump-suction system to remove the oxygen from the bottle. The system will keep a bottle fresh for a couple of weeks and because of its new-found popularity, you can find it lots of places.
There are systems a little more expensive such as Private Preserve that involve inert gases and others that are geared more towards the professional or serious wine drinker, so ask your local wine merchant for advice about these.
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Q. What is the difference between Flash Sterilization and Pasteurization?
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Wine juice is sterilized at high temperatures for a short contact time (meaning seconds - for this reason it is referred to as “flash”). Sterilization kills any micro-organisms present (including cells and spores) – and the product, once sterile will be sterile forever up to the point of the opening of the juice package.
Flash sterilization preserves the flavour, taste and aroma of grape juice.
Furthermore sterilization brings to zero any risk of fermentations in the bag, and allows a better and safer fermentation, when needed, because any eventual wild yeast has been killed. This means it improves indefinitely the shelf life.
Pasteurisation is a process where the temperatures are usually lower but the product is under heating for a long time (not seconds like the flash sterilization). Pasteurisation REDUCES THE MICRO-ORGANISM BUT DOESN’T KILL ALL OF THEM. So a product that is pasteurised in not sterile at all and can have micro-organisms that can develop a second time.
Further to this, the long contact time burns the aromas and gives the taste of a typical “cooked aftertaste”. In the case of a wine kit another negative effect is on the colour – the colour will change very quickly with age giving to the white the typical gold/brownish tone and in the red the flat/brownish tone that has nothing to do with a real wine.
This means in short terms that whatever raw material you use – juice or concentrate or both – the pasteurisation process would have a heavy and negative impact on it. This would also become worse and worse with the passing of time.
STERILIZATION
Higher temperature
Shorter contact time + aseptic filling
Low impact on the product
Longer shelf life
Sterilization kills ALL micro-organisms
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PASTEURIZATION
Lower temperature
Longer contact time
Deterioration of the product
Shorter shelf life
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Q. I started my wine two days ago and it looks like it has gone mouldy. What should I do?
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A. This is a question which we get from time to time, and we can say with the utmost confidence that it is virtually impossible for your wine juice to become mouldy in such a short period of time. What you are in fact seeing is the beginning of the normal fermentation process of wine.
At the start of the fermentation process the yeast becomes very active and the wine may even have the appearance of boiling.
Sometimes however it is not that active and the surface of the wine must looks all greyish-brown and bubbly; in fact it looks like a swamp or a bog. In red wines you may not see the colour, but the appearance is the same – just like a bog. There is also a sharp, almost disagreeable odour which is produced by the fermenting yeast. It is, in fact, carbon dioxide which is a natural by-product of fermentation.
The grayish colour is due to the bentonite which you may have put into your must to help fermentation and clearing, and the yeast which is beginning to die off as the alcohol level begins to rise. There is nothing wrong with wine which has this appearance. Often you don’t see this because you are not looking at the right time. By the time most of us look at the wine juice, this stage has passed and what we may see is a ring of grayish muddy looking stuff around the pail and on the underside of the lid or plastic sheet that you have used to cover the pail.
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